There was a Frank Zappa album that came out in the late 60's called "We're Only In It For The Money" - a parody of the Beatles' Sgt Peppers album. Most of the record was filled with random sounds, musical instruments occasionally playing in time or harmony with each other... it was brilliant satire. It was also clearly as noncommercial as music could get - on an intentional level. That was the pitch, really - to say you're only in something for the money implies that you are going to create something that is very middle-of-the-road - something for the masses to easily grasp and enjoy. The irony is that the Zappa album was actually the opposite... hence the fun!
For me, wine is like music. White Zinfandel is a tasty little bugger - and there's simply not much difference between what each winery makes in this regard. It's fruity, food friendly, tasty when chilled, and appeals to a wide audience. I can't tell you how many times I've been in the grocery store and watched people buy White Zinfandel. It's like getting a kid an iTunes gift card. It's so generic that the kid will find something to love with it.
So the question for me is, do winemakers create wine for money or is there something more? It's probably both. I have a friend who makes amazing beer. I know it's amazing because I've tasted it. I've also tasted other folks homemade brews and, for the most part, they suck. I've taken my friends beers and shared them with other folks - 'serious' beer drinkers who can't stand Budweiser but love a nice robust Arrogant Bastard or Racer 5. These folks love my friend's beer. I asked him if he was interested in marketing it; making it for sale. His reply was no. He's not interested in making money - even though, if you are a beer drinker and tasted his brews, I'm certain you would also buy it at the market or order it at a restaurant. It's that good. But my friend is perfectly content making 5 gallons of very high quality brew for his own enjoyment and to share with friends. The end result is satisfaction enough.
I have another friend who loves wine as much as I do. He's a bit more knowledgeable about wine making than I am - he's growing his own grapes to make his own wine. He hasn't mentioned selling it. He only mentions how excited he is to make his own wine - and do everything he can to make a great wine! The rationale? If he can make a great Syrah or Zinfandel, then he doesn't need to pay someone else to do it. Bottles that might cost him $50 or more can be enjoyed in abundance in his own home... with the pride and satisfaction of knowing that he did it himself.
But, I wonder, what if my friend decides to sell a few bottles.... and people like it and ask for more... then, he has a problem. He either continues to make it for himself and forget the money-making possibilities, or he decides to take a chance on a new business endeavor: one that was born of a passion to make and enjoy great wine only to become a business filled with the technical and financial realities that come with having to produce, have quality control, sell, market, etc etc....
I just wonder when the passion dies and gives way to trying to compete. When does even enjoying a glass at home become a test marketing comparison as the mind starts seeing everything in a financial light? At what point is it time to either move on or just accept that what started as a passion and love of craft becomes just a job and daily quest for survival in a very tough industry?
Thinking of Frank Zappa again, I think Charles Shaw wines are mildly drinkable, most are awful, and some are just this side of good but not delicious by any stretch. However, many people buy this wine because they just want a wine that doesn't cost much. Last I heard, Mr. Shaw was making a ton of money on this wine. His challenge seems to be making wine that even the two-buck customer will appreciate and not be offended by. Mr. Zappa made an album that implied mass appeal but, as any Zappa fan of that time will tell you, the goal was never being in it for the money. It was about making great music. Just like my friends' goals of making great beer and great wine.
Someone once told me that, if what you do causes you to say fuck humans, then get out. Make loving those that you love the thing you are best at - above all else. I want to extend that into love of craft... if you do not love what you do, think about this: you're going to die. You will. We all will. And between here and there, do you want to leave behind a legacy of making money or making something memorable, lasting, and special? We will all forget how much money you made. But, pour out a great wine that you put your heart and soul into while we celebrate that special conversation with a friend or loved one, and we will never forget you.
Cheers!
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